My first attempt at cutting a rail gap on Comstock Road with a motor tool cutting disk did not produce satisfactory results. Maybe I am just picky but this looks terrible.


Not the effect I am going for with the baseboard joints. To remedy this, I unsoldered the left side, filed the ends square and resoldered the rail closer. This looks like it will do.


I will have to figure out what to do in general. I can’t use my jeweller’s saw since I can’t get the blade down horizontally that close to a surface and the underside at the joints is encumbered with support structure so no drilling a hole and slipping the blade through.

Best option I have so far is to butt separate pieces up at the joints. It makes alignment a bit of an issue but it is more or less how I do it for regular joints anyway. Joint bars are applied afterwards merely for cosmetic effect.

The sharp eyed viewer may notice that the plastic tie plate on the left has melted during the resoldering operation. Not entirely unexpected but I was relying on those spikes to maintain alignment. It will be scraped out and replaced. It also serves as a caution about in which order soldering and tie plate installation need to happen.

4 thoughts on “Gaposis”

    1. Will it cut ROW steel rail? I was pleasantly surprised by how quickly the jeweller’s saw blades will go through it but my hobby type razor saw just scratches it.


  1. Put a piece of 0.020” sheet styrene between the section faces before you solder the track in place. Solder the rails, then cut the gap with a Dremel cutoff disc. Part the sections, remove the styrene sheet, and see what kind of fit you have. This approach effectively reduces the kerf of your cut by the thickness of the styrene sheet.


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