With the traverser and two of the approach tracks laid and wired, I have reached a point where I can “operate” part of the layout. Nothing exciting but schematically an Inglenook. The open spaces between the tracks make me nervous. If I misalign the traverser or an undetected flaw in the track causes a derailment, it is a long way down to the concrete floor. To mitigate that worry, I have started adding some of the foam for the  scenery base.

Here is are the first bits in place.firstfoam

I am doing things a little differently in that I am inlaying pieces between the tracks rather than laying the tracks on the foam. This results in quieter operation but requires considerably more fiddling and fitting. I lay some foam over the space to be filled, trace the edges from below and then cut out the shape using either a utility knife or my hot wire foam cutter.

I am also trying a new adhesive, Hot Wire Foam Factory’s Foam Fusion. It is a thin white glue especially formulated for foam. I will report further when we see how it works. It is supposed to work with most porous surfaces but I am concerned that there is not enough mating surface on the rough edges of the trackbed. I may have to resort to stacking layers up from the frames.

3 thoughts on “Foaming”

  1. Gluing Foam; I have used both ordinary carpenters glue as well as industrial adhesive in a caulking tube. Your fill-in pieces appear to fit well so shouldn’t be much stress on them, not a structural joint.
    Progress is always exciting.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Yep, I need to keep reminding myself that the precision required for trackwork is not required for scenery. I used the foamboard specific construction adhesive in the past but if you want to cut away foam afterwards it makes things way harder. Hot wire is a big no and even the utility knife is a hassle. I expect to do at least some light conturing and ditching along the way.
      The Foam Fusion glue can be cut with a hot wire tool. Which makes sense given who the manufacturer is. 🙂


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