A Good Iron Spike…

I have got all the rail down on Comstock Road. Wiring and point installation are pending as well as a lot of cosmetic tie plates and spikes but I am calling track laying complete.

Here is a status shot of the railroad for posterity.lastspike

If you squint, you will notice that the right leg of the turnout going off the front of the layout looks a bit odd. Since I don’t plan to launch any rolling stock into the ether, I have created a turnout with the frog removed. This is sometimes done to take a turnout out of service without abandoning or relaying track, just in case. In this instance, I laid the turnout as per normal and then pulled the frog and replaced it with a short piece of rail just as the prototype would have. I even put feeders under the dummy rails so I can restore things to operability if I ever want to.whatfrog

I also cut the last rail spanning a baseboard joint which I had forgotten to do. I rechecked all the other rails since attempting to pull sections apart would be a bad way to discover another oversight. Getting the jewellers saw into position required some excavation of prematurely installed foamboard.sawthenfoam

6 thoughts on “A Good Iron Spike…”

  1. A standard piercing saw blade will fit into a coping saw frame, extending the reach of the blade.
    Ok, too late now, but next time, or for anyone else, this may be useful…


    1. Coping saws on this side of the pond use a hole and pin system unlike the clamps of this saw. I must be missing your point because I don’t see how that would make the saw blade longer.


      1. I should also add that the underside of the baseboard at the section edges is occupied by supporting risers so there is no room for a drilled hole vertical approach.


      2. I have a coping saw which has clamps, as well as the facility to use holes and pins. It doesn’t make the blade any longer, but the frame is deeper – about 12”. As such, it may have been possible to reach in from one side or the other, with just a small hole in the sub roadbed.
        If a piercing saw is like this:
        Then the fretsaw would be like this:

        H=handle, C=clamp opposite. Blade fits C-H


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