Fixing The Last Turnout and Onward

Today I got the last “eighth” of the turnouts sorted. I resoldered the rail at the joint I broke loose last week, tweaked the alignment and aligned the servo. The servo alignment is good enough to work but just barely. I clearly goofed a bit when I sited the servo and bent the wire so maximum travel on one direction just gets to the stock rail. I will see how it holds up but for now, all of the trackage is operational.

I then set out to do a little cosmetic work on the trackage. It feels a bit odd to be working on purely cosmetic aspects of the track but I had to get there eventually. I started by filling in the ties around the front track baseboard joint where the rail is soldered to screws. I am not fussing over really tight fit since I expect things to get well buried in ballast and weeds. I am also using up scrap tie bits because who doesn’t save those for just such an eventuality! Nothing glued down in this shot, lower right bit is out of place for illustrative purposes.IMG_20190804_154937687

After a break for glue drying, I masked the front track’s surroundings and sprayed the track with the base brown colour (Rustoleum Camo Brown). Additional colouring is definitely in the cards since the result looks like commercial flex track. No point in putting all those spikes and tieplates in if nobody can see them. You can tell where the soldered screws are since the paint dries a lot slower on the solder than it does on everything else.IMG_20190804_194002504


2 thoughts on “Fixing The Last Turnout and Onward”

  1. You can put strips of painter’s tape (masking tape) down the middle of the track, between the tie plates, and similarly each side, and spray some rust coloured paint. This will colour the rails and tie plates, and take away that “commercial look”.
    A wash of light grey will also help give the ties a weathered look suitable for looking like they have been out in all weathers for a number of years – in fact, I no longer use brown for ties, making a 10% paint, 90% thinners wash based on “gunmetal” coloured paint – the metallic version can give you quite a nice silvered effect.


  2. Rest assured that there will be flailing about with airbrushes, paints, washes, pigments, etc. I just decided that I would start with everything brown instead of some of it stained brown, some of it painted rust, some of it soaked in flux, and some of it raw plastic, metal and wood. This at least gives me a plausible base to start but I have been already thinking about what I would do next time. A subtler approach from the beginning is definitely something I want to try.

    As far as masking to spray rail and tie plates, I am expecting to be able to get enough precision out of short range airbrushing with the 0.18mm tip on the fancy airbrush. We shall see.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: